A RESEACH ON IMPROVING SEAM PUCKER ON MOCK-SILK FABRICS

Abstract

Mock-silk fabric has a big potential and is being used more and more widely in fashion industry; this fabric is manufactured in Viet Nam with high output by many companies like: Thai Tuan Textile, Phuoc Thinh Textile, The Hoa Textile, etc... Mock-silk fabric is used to make traditional “Ao dai”, soirée, casual clothes, home garment … This kind of fabric has many outstanding features such as: soft handle, light, elegant appearance, air permeability , etc... however it also has some drawbacks like: fine yarn, high yarn density in fabric, low frictional coefficient thus it caused seam pucker on fabric during sewing processes.

This article focuses on simultaneous influence of processing parameters and sewing equipment on seam pucker on 100% mock-silk fabric and spandex-inserted mock-silk fabric, determines optimal solution in order to reduce seam pucker so that it can recommend the most effective methods of recovery for seam pucker in production of this kind of fabric.

Authors applied second level orthogonal experimental arrangement, optimization method and Design Expert software to design experimental alternates, process and analyse experimental results. The outcomes gave us optimal processing parameters and sewing equipment that remove seam pucker phenomena in the two mentioned above kinds of fabric.